by Kimmie Dillon
I’ve finally figured out what it is about surfing that attracts me. Look, we all love walking the beach and listening to the waves. But there’s something more that makes me want to pull on a wetsuit and head out. It’s that the ocean is a mysterious being that dances to its own rhythm. By surfing, I am succumbing to the unyielding strength of this massive force of nature.
At first I thought why would I spend countless hours and dollars trying to get in synch with something that would never even skip a beat if I left? The surf is a natural force with no regard to anything in its path. And that’s why I’m intrigued so much by it.
Surfing is easy and like all things, just takes practice to perfect. If you get the right advice in the early days with surf lessons, you will fast track the learning curve. Although I’m still in this learning phase, I really get while people fall in love with surfing. To find a wave’s energy, to harness it and then be able to run with it-that’s what surfing is all about. I look forward to the day where I go from standing on the wave to actually drawing lines on this liquid canvas. To all of the pros out there, I sure have admiration for how you have mastered your elements.
There are those that may not call surfing an extreme sport, but I do. It’s certainly an activity where one of the main elements of pleasure is derived from an intense thrill. And don’t forget that in most extreme sports, you need some sort of precise balance and a certain element of…risk. Riding big waves is all of this and lives up to the description as an extreme sport in my eyes.
So if you want to know what it really means to completely let go and live on the edge a bit, try surfing. You’ll give in to something much bigger than you, and you’ll love every minute of it.